Cusco vs Arequipa

So Mike and I have spent the last two weeks in Peru's 'second' cities. Cusco, due to its importance as a cultural centre and the economic benefits it brings in from Machu Picchu and other historic Inca sites, makes it officially the second most important city in the country. Arequipa 'the white city,' however, has the second biggest population after Lima.

They definitely have similarities. Both have a historic centre, in tact with cathedral, plaza and all the touristy shops and restaurants you would expect. However each has its own atmosphere and vibe.


Cusco is without a doubt set up to cater to all manner of tourist. It is a very easy place to stay for a long time if you wanted to and many do. Everything you could want is on your doorstep.

We enjoyed wondering around the city centre getting to know the different areas which each have an individual identity. A particular favourite was San Blaas, above the main square. This quarter has a mix of bars and restaurants, as well as being a great spot to find local arts and crafts at a fraction of the price in the town centre. Jack's cafe is a good option for lunch with a mix of European and Peruvian dishes (first time we have had hummus since leaving the UK), Paddy's Pub (the highest Irish Pub in the world - or so it claims) is a quirky pub to enjoy a pint and there is also a great little bakery that offers cakes, brownies and artisan breads galore.

Our couple of days here before and after the trek were literally spent wondering around the nooks and crannies, relaxing in the hostel and eating. On a celebratory night out with Team A after Machu Picchu we even enjoyed a curry followed by an attempt to go clubbing in Cusco's local nightclub Mama Africa.

We also braved the local food market, San Pedro for lunch a couple of times, 3 Soles for soup and a main course (less than 1 pound) - who says I can't budget.

Cusco is also a place where you tend to meet up with fellow travelers you have met along the way. We met up with the Swedes, Niklas and Martin (that we had met in Colombia) in our hostal and embarked on this day hike out to some Inca ruins including one called the 'Sexy Woman' together. We also caught up with Bob and Claire and Paul and Matesse for drinks on Halloween and Sam (who we had met in San Gil)  after our trip to Machu Pichhu.

After forcing ourselves to leave Cusco we headed for Arequipa, a eight hour bus journey away. Arequipa has a different feel to it than Cusco, much more chilled out and the city itself is much bigger.

We spent a couple of days wondering around the main historic centre and surrounding streets close to where our hostel was. The cathedral is a must and we did a tour of the Museum and bell towers as well for only 30 soles. Sadly the cathedral is closed to the public most of the time as there has been so many robberies of its artefacts crafted in gold, silver and semi precious stones. Interestingly we found out during our tour that Arequipa was first named 'the white city' due to the number of Spanish that settled here, later keeping the title due to the buildings built with white volcanic stone.

Built in the midst of several volcanoes and on the Nasca lines, the city experiences at least 10 tremors every day and has suffered from several volcanic eruptions and earthquakes, the last one in 2001. As a result the city is adept and rebuilding and the cathedral alone has been rebuilt 3-4 times.

The mountains that form the backdrop to the city are also steeped in history, with over seven Inca sacrifices found. The most famous of which, a 12 year old girl who's body was so well maintained due to mummification up in the ice, is only display in a museum in the city. It is thought she was chosen at the age of 3 to be sacrificed and then treated like a princess for her short life before embarking on a pilgrimage to the mountains from Cusco with high priests before being drugged and sacrificed to the gods. Archaeologists have used her remains to discover more about the Inca culture and people. Needless to say I loved hearing about all the history even if Mike was bored.

Another well worth trip was to one of the three convents in the city centre, Santa Catalina. Neil (who we had met up with again), Mike and I wondered around for a couple of hours enjoying the sun, the architecture and lunch in a small garden in the centre of the convent.

We also got to try Ceviche, a Peruvian specialty of raw fish or sea food pickled with lime or vinegar - it didn't agree with me and Alpaca. Sadly we missed out on Guinea Pig a national delicacy. On our last night before leaving for Colca Canyon, we also celebrated Neil's birthday.